COOKING STORIES

Mateusz Ulman

"Working with sourdough is a bit like caring for a living organism – you have to look after it, because depending on how you treat it, that’s the result you get the next day after baking."

cooking stories

MATEUSZ ULMAN

Mateusz Ulman is a freelancer and culinary consultant working with bakeries and cafés in Poland and abroad.
He gained experience ranging from fine dining in Poland to co-creating pastry projects in Copenhagen, as well as collaborating with bakeries in Paris, Los Angeles, and Dubai.

Today he helps create and develop places where product quality meets good atmosphere and thoughtful design. Privately, he is a father and a husband – he believes that the best food starts with mindfulness, simplicity, and relationships between people.

INTERVIEW

Mateusz Ulman x TAMO


Today we focused on morning routines. Tell us, do you have any of your own morning routines?

Of course I do. My morning rituals are definitely coffee. I don’t wake up without it. Or rather, I wake up with the thought that I’ll make coffee in a moment. So the first thing is brushing my teeth, and right after that I turn on the espresso machine and brew coffee. I’m lucky enough to be able to have breakfast with my family, which is very important to me – if not the most important part of the day. Those are my morning rituals. And after that, whatever the day brings.

Can you leave the house without breakfast?

Sure. If I have a very intense day with lots of meetings or a lot of work, there isn’t always time for it. However, in ninety percent of cases I try to make time and eat breakfast, which usually consists mainly of eggs and good bread. If I’m in a rush, it’s probably some oatmeal or granola. I don’t want to say I eat monotonously, but I do eat quite similarly very often.

Today we had a delicious toast with scrambled eggs on bread you made yourself. Do you always bake your own bread?

Not always. Now I’m going to justify myself, because later my wife will laugh at me. I baked it on this occasion, but I do try to bake at home – bread is very important to me. Because of where I live – I live in the countryside, not in a metropolis with fifteen fantastic bakeries – I have to take care of it myself. Unless I were to leave very early in the morning and spend half an hour driving to a good bakery. I’d rather spend that time here in the kitchen, baking my own bread. And yes, it’s a great thing.

When it comes to bread, how do you approach the process? What does working with sourdough teach you?

Above all, working with sourdough – and of course with dough as well – but it’s really the sourdough that is something incredible. Sourdough is sensitive to many factors: temperature, time, and the way you care for it.

It’s a bit like a living organism – you have to look after it, because depending on how you treat it, that’s the result you get the next day after baking. It’s something you wait for all night. For me, this process is very important and very intimate.

Yeasted dough is different – it can be prepared relatively quickly. Bread is at least five hours of work. Of course not continuous, but rather checking on it, caring for it, observing it. It’s a process. With yeasted doughs, it’s much faster, less demanding, and more focused on details.

SOURDOUGH BREAD

Bread flour – 460 g
Whole wheat flour – 40 g
Rye flour – 2 g
Water – 300 g
Salt – 10 g
Sourdough starter – 100 g


1. Mixing the dough

In a large bowl, combine all the flours.
Add the water and sourdough starter and mix until the ingredients are just combined.
Let rest for 20–30 minutes (autolyse).

2. Adding salt and kneading

Add the salt and knead the dough thoroughly by hand or with a mixer until it becomes elastic and smooth.

3. First rise and folding

Let the dough rest for 1 hour.
After that, perform a fold (stretch & fold).
Repeat the folding two more times, once every hour.

4. Pre-shaping

After the last fold, gently pre-shape the dough into a loaf and let it rest on the counter for 20 minutes, covered with a cloth.

5. Final shaping

Shape the loaf окончally and place it into a bowl lined with a cloth.
Dust the cloth generously with flour beforehand.

6. Proofing before baking

Let the dough rest for 1 hour at room temperature.
Then place it in the refrigerator overnight (12–16 hours).

7. Baking

The next day, preheat the oven to 240°C (465°F) with a cast-iron pot inside.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and score the top of the loaf.
Carefully place the bread into the preheated pot, cover with the lid, and put it in the oven.
Bake for 20 minutes covered, then remove the lid and bake for another 15–20 minutes, until the bread is golden brown.

8. Cooling

Remove the bread from the oven and let it cool on a rack before slicing.

What’s your favorite yeasted pastry – something you could not only eat often, but also make often?

You can’t really combine those two, because something I could eat every day would probably end in severe obesity. But I’m a huge fan of doughnuts – that’s my guilty pleasure, something I allow myself from time to time. As for something I bake fairly often at home, it’s challah or brioche – simple yeasted dough, usually without any additions. For me, the additions come later: my own jam, or some nut spread.

How often do you cook and bake at home?

If there’s a lot of work, there’s usually no time to cook. If there’s a bit less and I can afford to cook at home, then I do. I enjoy it, so at least breakfasts are my morning escape – first I focus on that, and only then do I get to work. Lunches less so – that’s usually my wife’s domain. But I do like cooking dinners, especially for family and friends.

If my wife were listening, she’d probably say I cook just to show off. Not at all – it simply gives me great pleasure. I like dinners that are a bit more elevated: someone comes over, we plan it, I invite people to our home. We have a fantastic table that easily seats ten people. Usually I’m the one cooking and standing by the pots, and then comes that moment when I’m sitting, sipping coffee, while everyone else cleans up. Something for something.

The smell of freshly baked yeasted goods often reminds us of home. Do you have smells like that too?

The smell of caraway seeds strongly reminds me of visiting my paternal grandmother. When you entered her house, steam with an intense caraway aroma would pour out from the tiled stove. There was always broth on the stove and five other things cooking at the same time. That’s the smell of home for me.

Fresh yeasted dough, on the other hand, reminds me of my wife’s family home. By the way, my mother-in-law bakes the best yeasted cakes, always “by eye.” I completely don’t understand measuring “by eye,” but the result is phenomenal.

ALMOND BUNS

Cake flour – 530 g
Sugar – 80 g
Butter – 120 g
Fresh yeast – 25 g
Milk – 115 g
Eggs – 3
Zest of 1 orange

Dough preparation

Mix the flour, milk, yeast, eggs, sugar, and salt for about 5–7 minutes on medium speed in a mixer.

  1. Add the cold butter, cut into cubes, gradually and continue mixing on medium speed for another 5 minutes.
  2. Once the dough is well kneaded, transfer it to a container and let it rise for about 40 minutes.
  3. Roll the dough out into a rectangle about 1 cm thick.
  4. Spread the cream over the dough and fold it into thirds.
  5. Roll it out again to about 1 cm thickness and cut into strips about 2 cm wide.
  6. Roll the strips into “snails” (spirals).
  7. Let the shaped dough rise for about 40 minutes to 1 hour.
  8. Brush with milk and sprinkle with sliced almonds.
  9. Bake in an oven preheated to 180°C (355°F) for about 12–15 minutes.
  10. Let cool and dust with powdered sugar.

Cream

Sugar – 50 g
Butter (room temperature) – 50 g

Peach jam – 50 g

Mix all ingredients until smooth and well combined.

Do you always work according to a recipe and stick to it exactly?

Yes. Since I work in gastronomy, professional kitchens require that. Of course, when I cook, I like to experiment a bit. But with baking, I have to be precise – 20 grams of this, 30 grams of that. In general, the proportions of ingredients like fat, yeast, or water have a huge impact on how the dough behaves. These are things you can control, and I like having control over them.

When you make a great sauce, you often want to add something extra – something you can’t really weigh, because you feel that two extra drops of vinegar can completely change its flavor profile. With baking it’s different – here I try to weigh everything precisely.

What do you do when you’re not cooking?

First of all, I take care of the garden – although that’s more of a daily necessity than a hobby. We have a small garden by the house, and there’s always something to trim, replant, or tidy up. Recently, though, I’ve been absorbed in labeling jars of Dopamine – spreads that I’ve recently started producing with my business partner. The greatest joy for me is being a dad. That’s probably my favorite activity and the best time of the day, and honestly, I wish it for everyone.

When we have more time, we like to go on short trips nearby, take walks, and spend weekends actively. There are really plenty of places to discover, so we try to take advantage of that as much as possible.

You’ve been involved in cooking for quite a long time – are there still things that can surprise you? Has anything surprised you recently?

Of course. For example, fish shawarma. It’s just mind-blowing in terms of flavor combinations and presentation. It was chopped fish in a sauce based on orange and citrus in general. Alongside it, there was pita or some other bread, and it was fantastic. I never thought you could make a kebab out of fish, and yet someone did.

There are lots of such discoveries every time, and they usually happen when I travel. Recently, London also surprised me culinarly. A lot of different things surprise me. I think that you’re constantly learning, constantly discovering, and therefore you can be surprised endlessly.

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